Far from being humble or modest some regional dress includes extravagant embroidery of gold and silver. Such pieces range from bonnets adorned with sequins and steel beads to vests covered in gold braid and ribbon. Areas controlled by the Ottoman empire including present day Greece, Albania and Bulgaria saw the development of vest and jackets covered with heavy gold braid embroidery. Generally for goldwork embroidery, the metal threads do not pierce through the ground material, instead they are secured down by second thread usually made of silk in a technique known as couching.
Both men and women wore elaborately embellished regional dress. Braid is a frequent trimming particularly on heavy wool ground and is more common in menswear than women’s wear. The braid could be all black but in many cases it was brightly colored and added visual interest to the piece.
While embroidery floss in fashionable urban dress has often been fine silk, regional dress styles often feature heavy, wool embroidery. Wool yarn may also be added for texture and adornment for instance with pompoms and other trimming.